1.D. Since you will most likely be painting outdoors, be midful of your surroundings. Test your spray paint and painting technique MAGIC~~Multi-Purpose Vegetable Slicer 2020 HOT!!! Yes. white glue (or rubber cement - thanks Ed Sharpe!) Remove these prior to painting figure. about 10 inches from the figs. How you apply primer is perhaps more important than just about anything else. Miniatures.com has been selling dollhouse miniatures online for over 20 years. Never, ever prime your models in direct sunlight. What I have been doing in cold weather for years is priming on the porch (or in the garage when I had one) and then bringing the minis into the bathroom with the vent fan running and the door closed. Clean up for a rattle can includes tipping it upside down and spraying until it sprays clear. I do not use a hair dryer. passed over the figs, I stop. Methods of applying primer are spraying and brushing on. Why do we use primer in a can? Anything over that gets weird and fuzzy, below 40% the paint dries before hitting your model and your priming gets dusty. My solution to cold weather primer (I live in Iowa) is simply use a brush on primer, and stay inside where it's warm and dry! Krylon is the best of the paint is really crappy, uneven and it comes out of the can in top to bottom. Primer not only assures for good paint adhesion, but it also Does primer do anything else beside let our paint grip our models better? If you're $24.69. Hand Electric Drill Water Pump Miniature Self-Priming Household Pumping ... HOT##Digital Water Quality PH/CL2 Chlorine Tester Level Meters For Swimming Pool. When using aerosol spray cans of primer, you’ll definitely want to prime your models outside. of spray. Various substances are used on miniatures to … Always use multiple thin coats instead of one thick coat. 1. Dave Garbe on. If you’re too far away, the paint will be spotty and dry). I mentioned Gesso above and it's not just for poor weather. Years of experience have taught me that it is best to spray when the temperature is between 65 and 80 and the humidity is fairly low. $25.99. It may be possible to thin this with the right solvent and spray it through an airbrush with similar results to rattle can enamel primer, but I haven’t tested it myself. For miniatures/ dollhouses or projects with fine cut details (1/4 scale siding etc. http://www.grafcaps.com/index.php?main_page=page_2&zenid=fcq501eluqcu2n4l39me6r6m47. Make sure the mini is at room temperature, too. "First, be sure you shake the paint well. Now that that's settled, we go into another major area of controversy If you aren’t an expert in primer application foloow these steps and you should always get good results. If you want to know everything there is to know about rattle cans and their nozzles, check out these links: Everyone knows that you’re supposed to shake your can of spray paint before using it, right? Or set them beneath a high-wattage Of course this will be more of a problem if you are priming metal as apposed to plastic or resin minis. It takes longer and wastes Floquil, Model Master, Testors, and Citadel. Never, ever prime your models in direct sunlight. Your email address will not be published. 3. I don’t recommend this futile act. figs out on newspaper and start spraying the newspaper to one side Wait, what’s that you say? a fan. Especially the pointy ones.) To say "normal" weather is best, is difficult, considering that you could be reading this from anywhere in the world. Read directions thoroughly Anyway, the primer you get at your hobby supply store, or from your game manufacturer is almost assuredly an enamel primer, and is your best choice if you can work with its application restrictions. Any closer and it's too hard to Ideally, you should not prime your model with an aerosol paint unless temperatures are between 50°F and 90°F, and relative humidity is below 85%. Various substances are used on some paint, but the finish is worth it to me. 2. When you prime something — wood, canvas, whatever — you’re creating a foundation layer of paint. I’ll need to check out the nozzle to see what sort it is. league. Rattle cans we buy (not including specialized cans for grafitti artists) generally come with one of three types of nozzles: 1) regular spray, 2) line spray, and 3) fine mist. So, we want to prime a model to make the surface textured? will rub off without the slightest provocation. Models need primer, because primer provides your subsequent layers of paint a texture onto which it will grip. anyway). If you want to use a zenithal priming technique like I teach in my Introduction to Painting and Modeling class then you might also use Black (and grey) primer, but this is not necessary to get a good surface prime. If you’re spraying a tank or other large object you should overlap your spray pattern by about one-third. The shinier/smoother the model, the worse paint will stick. You may need to mask exposed areas with tape or use a drop cloth. It is possible to have paint failure caused by flashing – when you apply multiple thick coats and the paint adheres to itself instead of the model. If your resin or metal model has any really glossy surfaces, consider using a fine sanding tool (200 grit or finer) to likely scuff the surface to improve adhesion of your primer. rec.games.miniatures, and is edited and used here without permission: Next up, priming or sealing. I recently learned from MisterJustin at Secret Weapon Miniatures that not all primers are created equal; there are evidently two major types of surface primer that we use in this hobby, solvent-based enamal and water-based acrylic polyeurethane. Before beginning your project, be sure to read the directions on the can. Check out some great ideas on how to prime your miniatures and models plus set up your projects for assembly line painting. Firstly, with your new knowledge about primer you will no longer douse your models in primer. spurts." Free shipping. With that set up, you can spray day or night, rain or shine. So armed with this little bit of knowledge I tested the advice I had found on an old model just to see what the results were like. I’ve tried, and unless you’re globbing the paint onto  the model with a spoon it doesn’t really work all that well. Your email address will not be published. 4. Spray Priming Miniatures From the desk of. This is the primer that I use. Primer application is like Goldilocks (not too much, not too little, just right). Most primers meant for miniatures dry really tight, meaning that even a little accidental overspray will dry to a thin crisp finish. By the time the primer is dry the smell from the paint is almost non-existent. which to place your miniatures for priming. This article is from the Miniatures Painting FAQ, by Brenda Klein tierna@agora.rdrop.com with numerous contributions by Using a solvent in your airbrush may shorten the life of your seals or cause issues with the finish of the airbrush. Unfortunately, primer should come with better instructions (well at least you should read them). Spray upward and at an angle and make passes from What most people don’t realize is that the frosting or flaky white primer is caused by priming in direct sunlight and/or hot, humid weather. miniatures to make them come free of the mold, as well as the fact Talk about a loaded question, right? That's when I realized that it's 37°F (3°C) outside today, and my normal priming spot is outdoors.So, brothers, how do you combine proper ventilation and a high enough temperature to prime models when it's cold outside? the non-hobbyist primers, but other store brands are in the same Its about -1°Celsuis where I live, I got figures to prime and no way to do it indoors. However, I’m told that most resins are cast using a paintable mold release agent and don’t need to be washed. If you use sandable primer, be especially careful to use control the amount of paint on the figs. You might learn something new. Now, all of that said, I tend to use an acrylic polyeurethane primer on my models because I can shoot it through my airbrush all year long, but I haven’t applied any advanced weathering techniques yet and the alchohol based metallic paints seem to be okay so far on top of the primer (I guess time will tell). of the figs, when the spray has been coming out for a half-second Most plastic, resin and metal surfaces are loathe to take paint without applying a primer first. 8. 7. Using a Spray-on Lacquer : Clear or colored spray lacquer can be used as a primer over MDF with good results. detail. On the other side, I’ve also heard that some Forgeworld models will seep an oily substance unless washed well. What I do is put the League of Underwhelming Miniature Painters, Erik’s Dark Angels 2014 Hobby Progress Challenge, Pete’s Tyranids 2014 Hobby Progress Challenge, No Mercy 2016, a Warhammer 40,000 Grand Tournament, Fall 2013 Warhammer 40K League Standings/ Results, http://www.grafcaps.com/index.php?main_page=page_2&zenid=fcq501eluqcu2n4l39me6r6m47. 9. cost than hoby and other specialty shops.) Next, keep the can as upright as possible, and keep the nozzle painting process without touching wet paint. I'm finding that brushing on gives me better coverage on the mini, and unless you a primering a ton of minis at a time, it doesn't add that much time to the process. mixed paint is falling on the figs. Adding fine detail to your miniatures, such as pupils for the eyes, lines in the deep creases of clothing, teeth in open mouths, and details of costumes. However, I am going to quickly discuss the difference between priming and sealing. Butt normal winter temperatures of up to ‑15 °C are still okay in terms of paint freezing. It is the humidity that is the real killer in winter. Good common sense right? Yes, but you don’t want to add a lot of texture, just enough to let the paint grip. HK. if you know what you’re doing. Turn can upside down and spray for 5 seconds, or until the spray is clear. And Coyt reminds us to always make sure you get the underside should shake it for a full minute, so I do it for two minutes. 5. Shake during use, too. [Painting Miniatures] What colour is the best colour to paint your miniatures? When you have finished the fine detail, you may want to add a very thin wash of color like burnt umber to add a bit of depth to the deeper details. from going everywhere and also tends to give a better coat. The answer depends on how you paint; however, I am going to suggest that you use white primer. You’re not going to let the paint dry completely before adding more if you find you don’t have even coverage. Start with a clean, dry surface Be aware of spray paint recoat times When you do the paint drys before it comes in contact with your model creating this horrible flakey finish. Trust me, you didn’t get a “bad” can, you painted in “bad” weather. - posted in + GENERAL PCA QUESTIONS +: So, back from the days I started priming my first metal figures I know that paint my not stick or if left out over night has the tendency to crack. If you're spraying, set up a large box enclosed on three sides in the miniature (use a small file, X-acto knife, or emery board), making sure you get rid of the bump under the base, if your miniature has a self-molded base (sandpaper is excellent for this), then WASH it in a little soap and water. interfere with paint adhesion unless cleaned off. Have you ever tried painting a plastic/resin/metal model without priming it first? 6. This is generally not an issue for primer application. This removes chemicals and residue that can affect your painting in later steps. Airbrush Gently warm up your paint can: Since the biggest problem with priming in the cold is losing pressure starting with a warmer can can prolong the amount if time that you can spray by a little bit. NOTE: Recently, I heard the Independent Characters talk about Orchard Supply and Hardware (OSH) primer. Clean spray paint valve after use has a self-molded base (sandpaper is excellent for this), then among painters: how? If it is too cold or hot, the aerosol formulation in spray cans won’t mix properly. Letting the primer dry a little between coats is best, and don't spray in hot weather or in very high humidity. So, you don’t need to use expensive primer, but there actually might be a reason why you want it (or something like it). You really want the fine mist nozzle because you want to apply as little primer as is necessary to create a grippy surface without over-priming. Without primer, acrylic paint can (and will) flake, rub, or chip off quite easily. You should also use a respirator when spraying solvents (but then you should use a respirator when applying anything through an airbrush). advice I've seen came from Deep Six (sl9b4@cc.usu.edu), as posted to $14.53. This assures that you can handle the miniature during the Anything you can safely handle without touching the 3 years ago. In addition to drying completely within 10 minutes (can vary depending on the temperature and humidity), this primer has a great conical tip that’s designed specifically to prevent runs and drips and give you consistent results every time. Your complete source for dollhouse kits, furniture, accessories and supplies. of the miniature as well, particularly if it's a figure in a cloak It's also a bad idea to prime if it's too cold, too hot or rainy - in these cases, consider using Gesso. White primer on a grey plastic, resin or white metal model is not going to make the model white, just lighter than it was before the primer; it will end up being a light grey. NOTE: If you must paint in these circumstances then you’ll need to compensate by holding the paint can closer to your model (making that fine mist nozzle even more important). Extreme temperatures and conditions are usually bad - too hot, cold, dry, wet, etc. Yes, this will use your propellant faster, but would you rather coat fewer models better, or more models with a poor finish? Personally, I use a mild dish soap and toothbrush to lightly clean all of my models before priming. with very good results, but it takes a light and even spray to retain I like to use a cardboard box to make a painting hood to catch overspray. Don’t cheat, spend a full 1-2 minutes agitating the paint for best results. Turn the can upside down and repeat, then turn the can back right side up and do it again. I lightly wash all my models and dry using compressed air (from a can or my air compressor). I suggest that you always start and stop spraying away from or off the model, using an even side-to-side motion with each pass. (A paint-on primer.) Ventilate What color primer should I use? I’m not sure how to advise you in light of these contradictions. g. Mount Figure and head separately if possible, easier to paint head and face if … With most aerosol paints, spray 6 to 10 inches from surface (if you’re too close, the paint may bubble and run. This assures that only properly Think of the pea (or ball) in your can as a stir stick in your can of paint. the miniature (use a small file, X-acto knife, or emery board), You can compensate for the wrong nozzle type, heat, etc. ), these heavy-bodied primers may be too thick and may soften detail. You do this by starting the spray before it hits the Even a freshly dry coat e. Look carefully at the figure after priming. Mix your paint in the can (Miniatures, of course, much prefer being set in a warm spot to being tucked under one’s arm. that comes out of the can when you first start spraying and when Reapers says that you can paint their Bones line of models without priming. you stop spraying is incomplete -- it has too much or too little However, if you must spray paint indoors, always ventilate your room well by opening windows and doors. that hand oils get on the miniature as it's handled, and these will Primer Colors. Spray primer in a well-lit area so you can easily see the light reflecting off the portion of the mini you're priming. Priming models in the winter - posted in + GENERAL PCA QUESTIONS +: As my "primed and ready for paint" box is getting empty, I was thinking of what next to assemble and prime. I’m inclined to want temperatures between 60°F and 80°F, with relative humidity below 60% (yes, I know this is easy in California and not everywhere else). paint, and/or too much or too little carrier. spray fast and smooth and get your models back into the warm quickly. I’m going to suggest that you never spray an aerosol paint indoors. Many resin miniatures are either cast in gray material or are primed gray. ... Really it's been to hot to primer here i really want to but i want the temp and conditions to be just right. Why do we use $15 a can primer? However, if you get inside and later determine that you need to add more primer, recoat time should be stated in the directions on the can. I’ve heard from at least one source that shaking a can on paint may actually dislodge some of the dried paint that resides along the edges. Priming Miniatures in an Apartment? It just doesn’t have the same effect. Bring the sprayed model back inside quickly to dry. Be mindful of overspray The most forgiving color you can prime your models is black. That said, always shake the can vigorously for about a minute before priming and do a test spray on a piece of cardboard first. It can be hard to put light colors on it (white, yellow, orange, etc), but the nice part is if you forget to paint in an area, then it just looks like a shadow. From there, you want to wash your models with warm water (not hot, as hot water can make plastic very bendable) and soap. But if you are able to prime your miniatures in a warmer weather, that would be better. When you do the paint drys before it comes in contact with your model creating this horrible flakey finish. The only thing painters seem to agree upon is I’m not going to rehash the merits of priming before painting (if you want to know more, check this out). In calm weather a flag will tend to have a lot of folds and double over a lot. What other equipment do I need? Now, use a little $15.29. Yes, it also can form a chemically resistant layer the protects the surface paint from coming detached from the model when certain advanced painting or weathering techniques are used (like applying a solvent-based paint or hair spray weathering, etc.). Take a look around and find high-quality miniature products at low prices! f. I like to prime figures with Tamiya Acrylics “Light Gray”. Every game store owner should tell their customer this one thing when they sell primer. On the subject of technique, the best How do I apply primer? If you paint indoors, please use a respirator to protect yourself. Ensure a smooth, even spray paint application by testing your paint and painting technique on a scrap surface or inconspicuous area before beginning your project. Generally speaking, paint adheres to a model through a mechanical bond (think super glue, not plastic cement – that’s another article). Last one . I can kick back in my porch recliner and have a relaxing morning priming a ton of stuff in any weather … or the like. In other words, paint catches in the micro-recesses on the model’s surface and clings to these imperfections. and most home improvement centers carry spray primer at much lower (Miniatures Painting), 2.A. It seems like when the can is about 3/4 of the way empty, figs and stopping the spray after it hits the figs. for miniatures are better at retaining detail. Just enough primer to lightly dust the model and see a slight color change is all that you need. Let me assure you that this is not your primer’s fault. too thin and use a semi-large brush to brush over your miniature from "sure" you have good ventilation, outdoors or in a window or set up Apply Details to Your Metal Miniatures . Any further and the paint all sides to assure coverage. What most people don’t realize is that the frosting or flaky white primer is caused by priming in direct sunlight and/or hot, humid weather. Every game store owner should tell their customer this one thing when they sell primer. It’s also easy to press so your fingers won’t hurt after spray priming miniatures for a long time. Citadel primer comes with a fine mist nozzle, where other manufacturers do not, and what you want more than anything is the fine mist nozzle. The technique you use for applying primer is most important for the longevity of the model and the level of detail on the model. This will keep the paint If you don’t follow the recoat timing instructions you could have paint failure (resulting in lost adhesion). BEFORE APPLYING PRIMER you will need to clean up any bad lines on 0. figure. He says that the reason we prefer to use enamal primer on models is that once dried alcohol-based solvents and other weathering techniques will not disolve the enamel primer, whereas they can cause failure with an acrylic primer. others. They were very happy with the product for only a few dollars. Many times you will see flaws in the figure or blemishes embedded in the primer coat. I’ll cover this in application technique below. Well, not exactly, it turns out. Put the cap back on and put it away. It says on the can you If you have to prime outdoors below 60 degrees F (like 15 in socialist degrees?) Required fields are marked *. If you let your can sit in warm, not hot, water for 5-10 minutes before using it, it will get a little bit warmer. If its raining/humid/too cold, I spray them out there (in really bad weather like right now I stand in the balcony door so the overspray goes outside but the minis are not exposed to the cold/wet weather) and then put them in my guest bathroom with the fan turned on to vent the fumes as they dry. Using black will also make your colors a bit desaturated (dull).